Jacob Epstein's sculpture of the Archangel Michael at Coventry Cathedral |
Today is Michaelmas, the Feast of St Michael and All Angels,
so please make sure you have picked all your blackberries! According to legend,
the Devil landed in a blackberry bush when St Michael threw him out of Paradise,
and was so badly scratched he spat on the plant, making the fruit inedible - so
you cannot eat them after September 29!
When I was a child we
had a blackberry bush in the garden, and an apple tree, and we used to gather
blackberries from fields and hedgerows, and my mother used to bake the most
wonderful blackberry and apple pies, but we never worried about old stories
like this, and nor did anyone else. As long as the fruit was ripe it got eaten,
no matter what the date was.
There are all kinds of rhymes and proverbs connected to
Michaelmas, and many of them are concerned with the weather. Sunshine on St
Michael’s Day indicates a fine winter, while light winds mean there will be no
snow at Christmas: but be warned, yet another old tradition maintains that if St
Michael brings lots of acorns it will snow for the festive season – and so don’t
ask what happens if there are light winds, sun and lots of acorns!
St Michael the Archangel was the captain of the Host of Heaven,
who defeated Satan and the fallen angels, and is therefore the patron of
knights and warriors, as well as the sick, mariners and grocers (is that why the
Marks and Spencer label is St Michael I wonder?). He is usually shown with a
sword, battling with Satan or a dragon – like Jacob Epstein’s fantastic
sculpture mounted on the outside wall of Coventry Cathedral, which is the most
amazing building and well worth a visit.
Michaelmas is one of the four ‘quarter days’ of the year,
when tenants paid their quarterly rent and servants were hired at ‘Mop Fairs’
when they donned their best clothes and carried tools associated with their
trade. In some areas the festivities were held at the end of September, but in
others people continued to hold the event in October, on the date of ‘old’
feast day before the calendar was changed.
Blackberries - cook them with apples and bake a delicious pie. |
It was thought lucky to eat a goose, fattened on stubble left
in the fields after harvest, so traditional goose fairs also occur on both
dates, marking the start of autumn and the approach of winter. Apparently, in
times gone by people believed ‘Eat a goose on Michaelmas Day, Want not for
money all the year’, which seems to discriminate against vegetarians like me,
but may account for the fact that I never have any money!
During the Second World War geese (which were popular at
Christmas as well as Michaelmas) must have been in short supply, like many
other foods, because old recipe books feature mock goose , along with mock
cream, mock apricots (carrots and flavouring), mock bananas and other similar
delicacies. Anyway, mock goose usually seems to have been a kind of cheese and
potato pie, involving potatoes, cheese, apples and sage. However, in his TV
programme Ration Book Cooking Valentine Warner used red lentils and
breadcrumbs, with onion and sage, which is quite pleasant, but much better with
the addition of grated cheese. Neither recipe, it should be emphasized,
resembles goose in any way, shape or form.
So there is plenty of choice to mark the feast day. Cook a
goose, or blackberries, or the wartime veggie version... with a glass of
wine... and you could dip into Milton’s Paradise Lost (the easiest place to
find Michael the Archangel is where he offers advice on life, the universe and
everything to Adam and Eve)... or you could start reading Philip
Pullman’s trilogy His Dark Materials, which was inspired by Milton ‘s epic poem.
If you want to roast a goose check out this Delia Smith recipe at www.delia.com |